Kadavu is one of the larger of islands of the Fiji Group. Some 50 miles by water from the capital city of Suva is the Fijian village of Namuana. Namuana is at the foot of a beautiful bay close to the Government Station in Vunisea Harbour. Here, the island of Kadavu narrows down to an isthmus (a narrow strip of land connecting two large land masses). Legend says that in the days gone by, the warriors of Kadavu slid their canoes on rollers up over the narrow neck of land to save the long journey around the east and the west of Kadavu Island.
The women of Namuana village still preserve a very strange ritual – that of calling turtles from the sea. If you visit Namuana village to see turtle calling, your boat anchors in a beautiful bay under the cliffs of a rocky headland. You land on the beach and sit on the rocks. Or climb to a rocky tract to a point some 150 or 200 feet up the rock face. From here you can have a splendid view. You will find all the maidens of the village of Namuana assembled and singing a strange chant. As they chant, you will see giant turtles rise one by one on the surface, listening to the music.
This is not fairy tale. It actually takes place. The fishing of turtles is prohibited in this area.
There is another interesting sideline to this performance. If any member of the nearby village of Nabukelevu is present, then the turtles will not rise to the surface of the bay and the turtle calling has to be abandoned.
As is usually the case with such strange ceremonies and customs, in Fiji, the turtle calling is based on an ancient legend. This legend is passed on from father to son among the Fijian people of Kadavu.
Many, many years ago, in the beautiful village of Namuana, on the island Kadavu, lived a very lovely princess called Tinaicoboga. She was the wife of the chief of Namuana village. She had a charming daughter called Raudalice. The two women often went fishing on the reefs around their home.
Once they went farther than usual. They waded out on the submerged reefs. They became so involved with their fishing that they did not see the approach of a big war canoe. I was full of fishermen from the nearby village of Nabukelevu. This village is situated in the shadow of Mount Washington, which is the highest mountain on Kadavu Island. Today this mountain is well known to the mariners because there is a fine light-house there. It warns them of the dangers of the rocky coastline.
Suddenly the fishermen jumped out of their boats and caught the two women. They tied their hands and feet with the vine (the plant on which grapes grow) and threw them into their canoe and they went home in a great hurry. The women begged for their lives. But the cruel fishermen from Nabukelevu did not listen to their requests.
But the gods of the sea were kind. A great storm arose and the canoe was tossed about by huge waves, which almost drowned it. As the canoe was in serious difficulty, the fishermen were surprised to see that the two women lying in the water in the hold of the canoe had turned into turtles. To save their own lives, the fishermen threw the turtles into the sea. Immediately the weather changed and there were no more waves.
The Nabukelevu fishermen continued their journey home. The two women from
Namuana who had changed to turtle lived on in the water of the bay. It is their descendants today who rise from the water when the maidens of their own village sing songs to them from the cliffs.
This is the translation of the song chanted by them:
“The women of Namuana are all dressed in mourning
Each carries a sacred club each tattooed in a strange pattern
Do rise to the surface Raudalice so we may look at you
Do rise to the surface Tinaicoboga so we may also look at you.”
You may doubt the truth of the legend. But the chanting of this strange song does bring the giant turtles to the surface of the blue waters of the bay, near Namuana village.
