The ocean water never remains stable because of the influence of various factors on it. Thus, ocean water always keeps moving. Its propagation is a very Complex phenomenon. Diversity is found in the factors that control and affect it. If air does not move, the ocean water also stays stable. Ripples and waves are produced by the friction between ocean water and air. The impact of winds has its effect within the ocean to a depth of about 100 meters.
There are three major types of motions in the oceans:
1. Waves: Waves refer to the turbulence in the liquid surface of the ocean. This is the most extensive and ubiquitous motion of the ocean water. They originate due to the blowing of winds and when the water surface becomes wavy due to the motion in the earth’s crust.
2. Tides: The process of rising up of the sea water level due to the gravitational force of the sun and the moon is called Tide, and the process of its falling down is called Ebb.
3. Ocean Currents: An ocean current is a continuous flow of ocean water in a particular direction from one place of the ocean to another place.
Pattern of Waves:
1. Wave Crest: The crest of a wave is the point on the medium that exhibits the maximum amount of positive or upward displacement from the rest position.
2. Wave Trough: The trough of a wave is the point on the medium that exhibits the maximum amount of negative or downward displacement from the rest position.
3. Wave Length: The distance between two successive crests of a wave is called the wave length.
Velocity of Wave: Wave velocity is related to its length and frequency and .
It can be determined by the following formula:
Types of Waves:
There are three types of waves originated by the winds:
1. See: When the waves with different wave lengths or directions originate in the sea simultaneously, then an irregular wave format is formed, which is called See.
2. Swale: When the waves move away from the influence of those winds that have created them, the waves sustain a uniform height and periodicity. This is called Swale.
3. Surf: When the waves reach near the seashore, their slopes become steep and their height increases. After reaching the shore, they proceed back to the sea. In these coastal areas, these breaking waves are called Surf.
In addition to the waves formed by winds, there are also other types of sea waves. Among these, Destructive Waves (Tsunami), Stormy Waves and Internal Waves are the major ones. They originate due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and oceanic landslides.
